Burghound Symposium: Masterclass 1 - Morey St. Denis

Date: 23rd April 2016
Time: 1 PM - 2:45 PM
Venue: Atrium Room (39/F, Island Shangri-la Hotel, Pacific Place, Hong Kong)
Price: $2,680 per person

Driving north along the N74, you would pass Morey-St-Denis in the blink of an eye. Yet this diminutive village – the smallest in the Côte de Nuits, is home to four magnificent grands crus vineyards, all of them walled – a nod to their historic importance. Despite the ‘St-Denis’ appendage to the village Morey’s name, it is Clos de la Roche that is today perhaps the most famous of these, helped, no doubt, by the brilliance of the examples from Domaine Ponsot and Domaine Dujac. Clos de Lambrays’ elegance and Clos de Tart’s velvety richness contrast all the more in the connoisseur’s mind, in part because these two grands crus are “monopole” (Clos de Tart) or almost so (Clos des Lambrays), and both of these two producers accentuate those vineyards natural expression all the more. They are neighbouring vineyards, yet what a contrast. Perhaps I am in a minority in thinking that Clos-St-Denis rightly has its name positioned top, appended to Morey(-St-Denis) to advertise its prestige. Clos St Denis seems to offer cerebral pleasure first, ahead of hedonistic merit.

 

If anything, Clos-St-Denis sums up Morey’s best attributes. Not the firm intensity of Nuits-St-Georges, the perfumed charm of Chambolle, the heady spice of Vosne-Romanée, nor the brooding dark fruit and wildness of Gevrey. Morey-St-Denis’ character seems both refined and subtle, more reserved, yet lacking nothing in complexity or sophistication. But this leaves it also a late choice as enthusiasts develop their appreciation for the diversity and complexity of fine Burgundy. That suits those who have caught up with its qualities just fine, after all, there is little of it to go around.

 

And what of the 1er Crus? Even experienced enthusiasts are hard-pressed to name more than two.

In this masterclass Allen Meadows will lead us through not only the similarities and differences of Morey’s four grands crus (with domaine-style comparisons for Clos de Roche and Clos St Denis), but also six 1er Crus as well. We will come away with a much deeper understanding and appreciation for this, the Côte de Nuit’s less understood village.

 

WINES TO BE SERVED

2002 Clos de Tart - Clos de Tart
2002 Hubert Lignier - Clos de la Roche
2002 Clos des Lambrays
2008 Ponsot - Clos de la Roche VV
2008 Dujac - Clos de la Roche
2008 Dujac - Clos St Denis
2008 Georges Lignier - Clos St Denis
2008 Georges Roumier - Morey St Denis 1er Clos de Bussière
2008 Perrot-Minot - Morey St Denis 1er Cru ‘La Riotte’
2008 Fourrier - Morey St Denis 1er Cru ‘Clos Sorbes’
2011 Lignier Michelot - Morey St Denis 1er Faconnieres
2011 Lignier Michelot - Morey St Denis 1er Aux Charmes
2011 Lignier Michelot - Morey St Denis 1er Les Chenevery

 

For details of our Allen Meadows Burghound Symposium 2016, please click here.

WINES TASTED