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Comprehensive vertical tasting of d'Angerville Clos des Ducs
|Date:||8th October 2015|
|Venue:||Amuse Bouche, 22/F, The Hennessy building, 256 Hennessy Road, Wan Chai|
|Price:||$5800 per person.|
Join us on 8th October explore the exceptional Volnay terroirs of ‘Clos des Ducs’. This 2.15ha vineyard of terres blanches – thin, pale, stony soil, on a good steep well-drained slope giving firm, suitably aristocratic, long-lived wines. In some ways it reminds me of Bonnes Mares – very fine, well-structured, and needing long ageing to see full potential.
The vineyard is a monopole belonging to the Domaine Marquis d’Angerville, one of the very greatest domaines in Burgundy. The family has always believed in doing things right, and along with Henri Gouges and Armand Rousseau, were pioneers in domaine-bottled wine. Sem d’Angerville had spoken out against the common negocient practice of blending Burgundy wine with the potent wines of the south of France and Algeria. The trade returned the favour by refusing to sell d’Angerville’s wines. In this way the he became an early defender of pure unadulterated domaine-bottled wine.
Our selection was assembled mostly in London a few years ago – the mirror of a vertical The Fine Wine Experience hosted there in 2010. Many of these bottles would be extremely hard to find today.
Dinner includes: ’06, ’05, ‘03, ’02, ’01, ’99, ’97, ’96, ’92, ’90, ’89, ’88, ’85, ’78, ‘72
This evening’s dinner represents a rare opportunity to understand and enjoy one of the finest vineyards of Burgundy, and, as the Côte de Beaune has not (yet) gone bonkers at all, in the way that the Côte de Nuits has, this is still an accessible opportunity. Clos des Ducs therefore, is still a wine for the astute connoisseur.
We shall discover the latter 30 year span of Jacques d’Angerville’s long post-war run. He was responsible from the late ‘40s until he passed away in 2003. The estate is now managed by his son Guillaume d’Angerville, the current maître de chai, Francois Duvivier, beginning his work in 2005. We bookend with the ’05 and ’06. Do we discern a shift?
Our 15 vintage selection omits no stars, with vintages like ’05, ’99, ’90, ’85 and ’78 all present, covers many vintage expressions, and arcs long enough to allow us to see how Clos des Ducs evolves in the cellar and rewards patience.
Don’t miss this.