Have you ever organized something and had a fateful midnight call the night before the event – the speaker can’t make it? We hosted a Château du Moulin-à-Vent dinner on 9th Novemver 2017 at Beet, and the star of this event – Edouard Parinet had some trouble in China with his visa – some misunderstanding – and had to fly back to France on the eve of our Hong Kong event.
What to do?
In the end it all worked perfectly. We took our projector to the newly opened restaurant Beet (which you must try – in Kau U Fong, Soho), and linked Edouard up by Skype. He was able to lead us through the wines, vineyards, terroir and history of his Château du Moulin-à-Vent, and even talk us through a slideshow. Bravo Edouard!
There is something of a paradox in saying that Château du Moulin-à-Vent is a ‘serious wine’. They are made seriously – much like Burgundy, and they express individual, distinguishable terroirs cuvée by cuvée (more on that in a minute). They are ageworthy and interesting to cellar too. But, there is also something undeniably jolly about the Gamay grape from which they are made. There is an appealing fruitiness here – somewhere between the dark fruit and power of the Northern Rhône and the red fruit and finesse of Burgundy; the wines mirror their in-between location.
If you are looking for that fruitiness to the max, then I would recommend the sun-fresh 2015s, which have yet to land, but are offered en primeur. There’s even a small allocation of 3-litre bottles available – a wise choice!
We have just taken delivery in Hong Kong of fresh stocks of the 2014s. You must try the Champ de Cour.
Here is a brief breakdown of the cuvées:
Moulin-à-Vent – the estate wine, and in expression represents Moulin-à-Vent as a whole. Well-balanced and fine.
Champ de Cour – single-vineyard – at the foot of the hill, granite and clay soil, east-facing. Emphasises freshness. (the 2014 of this is a personal favourite of mine).
La Rochelle – full south-facing site with more silica in the soil. Noble, complex expression, very complete. Great for cellaring. (I love the 2012 with roast lamb or beef).
Croix des Verillats – poor soil granite mount, wind exposed giving intense concentration. Powerful wine, lots of minerality.
Clos des Londres – a small, walled vineyard of decomposed granite soil. A prestige label only released in top vintages.
2015 – opulently fruity wines
2014 – beautifully expressive vintage, each terroir displayed clearly. I love drinking this vintage, but it will cellar well too.
2012 – good balance between fruitiness and savouriness, delicious food wine vintage. Try the La Rochelle.
2010 – classic year, fine quality. Buy now while our small selection is still available.
2009 – opulent, ripe and powerful vintage.