Title Ch Pétrus 2000-1978 (IMW)
Author: Linden Wilkie
Venue: London
Date article was added: 27th January 2004
Date of event January 27, 2004
I begged, grovelled and pestered the Institute of Masters of Wine for several months to ensure a place at this tasting. The IMW organise regular daytime tastings – principally for Masters of Wine, but invitations are extended to others in the wine trade at modest fees.
An opportunity to enjoy eight vintages of Chateau Pétrus in a tasting tutored by its producer, M. Christian Moueix, was an opportunity not to be missed. I don’t know about you, but wines in the £1,000 per bottle league are a little out of my reach, and tastings, such as this one generously supported by Monsieur Moueix, are about the only chance I would get to enjoy these wines.
The final line up had my eyes watering – 2000, 1999, 1998, 1995, 1990, 1989, 1982 and 1978. Having only ever previously tasted the less-than-thrilling 1976, this was my big chance, and the key question on my mind was ‘will I be blown away by Pétrus in all these good to great vintages, or will I be merely pleased with the wine?’ Well, as you will see below in my tasting notes, the wines did live up to their legendary status. The 2000, 1998, 1990, and 1989 were particularly thrilling. The 1999 was very good for the vintage and (positive) surprise was the shear quality of the 1978. The only disappointment was the 1982 – a wine now at least £1,500 per bottle. Many on the day thought it was wonderful. I thought it was excellent (93/100), but had more criticisms for it than I had anticipated for a wine of its reputation.
But why is the wine so good? I think M. Moueix summed it up when he described the 2000 – “a controlled explosion”. Many producers can make wines with finesse – lacking in power, but very elegant. Many producers can make big burly wines with extract, but which feel heavy, or out of balance. Ch. Pétrus manages to achieve power with finesse. In wines such as the 1998 (my favourite in the line up) the wine is supremely elegant, yet with depth, concentration and nuance.
This is in part achieved by the wine’s great terroir – blue-gray clay on gravel over an iron subsoil in combination with the prefect micro-climate for merlot. But, as Moueix points out “the human factor is very important”…
So what did I learn from Christian Moueix that I couldn’t find in the wine books? Well, firstly, I was impressed by the man behind the wine – dapper, gentile and very charming. He struck me as someone visionary, yet at the same time in complete appreciation and control of the little details that lead to great wine: “I know each block, each row, each vine I would say”. Great care in the vineyard culminates with the highest degree of control and flexibility possible at harvest.
Ch. Pétrus has its own weather station, and when Moueix gives the order “to attack” as he puts it, and army of 150 pickers are there on standby, ready to pick the whole 11 hectares in less than one day – “a huge advantage”.
Blending from the various parcels – 95% planted to merlot and 5% to cabernet franc – takes place in blind tastings. Sometimes little or no cabernet franc makes it into the final blend, - it depends on the vintage. Likewise oak maturation varies – 80% new oak in lighter vintages such as 1997 (which used 20% barrels left from the 1995 vintage), and up to 100% new French oak in richer vintages.
Finally, for those interested in the little details, a myth about the use of stems was dispelled. In the 1973 and 1974 vintages there had been a little rot and the skins were thin and fragile. 20% of the ripe stems were added to the must to add tannin – but only in those two vintages, and it has not been practiced since.
All in all a fabulous tasting, and I’m very grateful the IMW squeezed me in.
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