Title Ch Léoville Las Cases 1998-1949
Author: Linden Wilkie
Venue: Institute of Directors Building
Date article was added: 9th December 2003
Date of event December 9, 2003
The Event
Having spent months acquiring a good array of vintages of this top Bordeaux chateau, I was excited to pull the corks in a room full of enthusiasts. Michael Broadbent MW is about the only reliable source for information on much older vintages, and we were honoured to have him and his wife Daphne at our tasting.
An Exciting Start
A heady aroma filled the room as the first seven wines were poured, and we were underway. The 1998 – along with its neighbour, Ch. Ducru-Beaucaillou, is wine well worth seeking out for laying down. Both wines offer great value for their quality in a vintage highly regarded on the right-bank, but undeservedly overlooked on the left-bank.
But it was the 1996 that for me showed the magical heights this wine can reach. Near perfection, and firmly demonstrating that this is a ‘super second’.
A controversial middle
The 1989 was a little disappointing I thought, for such a highly regarded vintage, but it was the 1986 and 1982 that left me perplexed. Here were two classically styled, unyielding St Juliens. They are unready, and given the tannic structure and lack of finesse or fruit-flavour on the palate right now, were controversial on the night. Indeed some tempers came close to the surface! For my money, if you are looking for a Las Case to drink now, the highlight was the lovely, soft, round and complex 1985 – and 1/3 the price of the 1982.
1955 – a delightful surprise at the finish
Then came the drama – the 1961, 1955 and 1949 trio. All reputedly well-cellared and all with good levels. While we were unlucky with the 1949 – a bit maderised, but still showing the quality of the vintage; the 1961 and 1955 were real treats. The 1955 delicate and perfumed; the 1961 rich and complex.
The 1955 was universally enjoyed, and was Michael Broadbent’s favourite for the night. “A vintage that shouldn’t be overlooked” he added. The 1998 of its day, perhaps?
Neal Martin’s review (including some technical notes and background on the property) for this tasting can be found here.
|
