Title Ch Montrose 2000-1985 (Christie's)
Author: Linden Wilkie
Venue: Christie's, London
Date article was added: 24/03/04
Date of event March 23, 2004
I left this tasting feeling neither excited by any of the wines shown, nor really disappointed by any – a ‘very good’ producer I felt. ‘Dependable’. It must be said, however, that none of the 2000, 1990, 1989, 1982, 1961, 1959 grands vins were shown – so perhaps there is room for excitement for me yet. If the 2000 and 1990 second wines – La Dame de Montrose – are anything to go by, that is distinctly possible.
The highlight for me was Broadbent himself. Any tasting with him is entertaining. Broadbent glows with enthusiasm when discussing the wines of Bordeaux, and who else can recount tastings of the 1869, the 1870, the 1893 the 1921… Here is someone with over 50 years’ experience with these wines, and as someone known to make the odd outrageous comment about ‘The French’, or his good friend Mr Parker, he didn’t disappoint. Just don’t ask me to quote!
I have to admit too that I have had little of Ch Montrose in the past, and I was interested to understand something of the wine’s character. As St. Estèphe wines, I was expecting fairly tanninc beasts with a heart of fruit, but I was surprised by their accessibility. The 1986 was delicious – tannic yes – but round, ripe and with delicious fruit. The 1996 is perhaps the least accessible, but even that was opening up wonderfully after and hour in the glass.
The only disappointment was the 1985 – nothing wrong with its flavours and aromas per se, but it was distinctly lighter in style than the younger wines, and already à point, if not heading into decline.
Well, my second chance to assess these wines (and yours if you would care to join me) will be in September at The Fine Wine Experience’s Chateau Montrose vertical, details of which are posted here. The 1990 grand vin will be included as will some much older vintages…. I can’t wait.
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