This tasting of Jaboulet Hermitage ‘La Chapelle’ was something I was long looking forward to. Every since first trying La Chapelle ten years ago, the wine has fascinated me – that complexity on the bouquet when the wine is mature and the warm richness on the palate.
“Is there a La Chapelle style I had wondered?” Ten vintages should tell us.
The juxtaposition in market value of these wines is astonishing. Cases of 1996 La Chapelle can be obtained at auction for £260, yet a single bottle of the 1961 will set you back £3,500. I can’t think of any other fine wine where a legendary (modern) vintage will cost 160 times a good recent one.
Perhaps its La Chapelle’s ability to hit the very peaks of vinous pleasure? The team at Wine Spectator named the 1961 La Chapelle one of its dream dozen wines of all time in 1999. Our chance to try the “Parker-100” version of La Chapelle came in the form of the 1978 and the 1990.
And what from all this did we learn from the wine in the glass?
Firstly, La Chapelle is a seasonal expression of very fine syrah. From its favoured slopes in Hermitage AC, it offers an expression of syrah that reads like a weather report. The heat in the 1990, 1989 and 1982 vintages was clearly evident, just as much as the coolness of 1996.
This offered enough variations in style to cuase some lively discussion at our tasting about preferences and quality. Everyone found examples they like just as much as everyone found examples they didn’t like – and almost all examples fell into both camps. Isn’t wine tasting great?
The 1990 is probably a great wine – its too hard to judge right now. I was impressed with its unevolved saturated colour, and thick-textured concentrated palate. Today it is offering so little though – a subdued aroma, unyielding from its tannic, closed up structure. It is also almost liqueur-like in concentration, and a little warm (alcohol) on the finish. As yet it carries its power without any degree of finesse. If you have some, you would be advised to wait a long long time before opening any. I tasted this wine in December 2003 in a blind tasting I organised of 1990 Rhone Valley Reds. I had the same impression then.
The 1978 offered much more for me – though it was controversial. (I have included fellow wine enthusiast Charles Darnell’s notes with my own below, to show some contrast in opinion). For me this wine had wonderfully complex and enticing aromatics, power with balance on the palate, and is beginning to drink extremely well – though with a long life ahead. Others weren’t convinced, so caveat emptor!
Back to that juxtaposition for a moment. For my money, as much as I see the potential of the 1990, and the quality of the 1978, these wines are currently retailing for £220 and £420 a bottle. I wouldn’t pay that when I can get almost as much from the good vintages. I’m on the look out for a well-cellared case of the 1995, currently trading in the brokers’ market for about £330 a case in bond. For a mature example, my pick from our tasting would be the 1983 – tannic yes, but rich and complex, and trading for about £680 a case in bond in the brokers’ market.
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At the end of the tasting we had a vote. “Your top wine of the night?” – 1978 1st, 1970 2nd, and 1983 / 1982 3rd equal. (There was only one vote for 1990). “Which wine would you take home tonight to drink with dinner?” – 1982 1st, 1983 2nd, and 1978 / 1970 3rd equal. Proof that comparatively good value examples can be favourites – the key is that there are La Chapelle styles and each will find its fan amongst us. This is REAL wine afterall – as much a mark of the vintage as a stamp of Hermitage syrah. My advice is to try bottles that seem appealing before investing in that case for the cellar.
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