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Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux 1ère Trie 1990, Gaston Huët
Region: -Loire
Type: Sweet
Rating: 88
Guide Price: 107.00
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6/8 wine in flight
Okay, here is where the colour lesson was re-confirmed. This was darker than the 1924! Pinguet said it was drinking well without ever having had an ‘adolescence’. He thinks it has a great future – like the 1947. I thought it lacked the acidity of the 1947 – but still had the exotic richness. Incidentally, at this point I asked what the difference was between this (100% botrytis vintage with 100g/l residual sugar) and the Cuvée Constance is. He said the Cuvée Constance was begun with the 1989 vintage, but he felt the 1990 didn’t have the acidity necessary (7.5g/l minimum) to make the grade for the Cuvée Constance.
My tasting note: The deepest colour in the tasting - orange gold with a bronze/copper tint, bright; intense botrytis on the nose – very complex and rich for a young wine with notes of smoke, orange and grilled nuts; very rich and botrytised fruit on the palate with lowish acidity (in this line up, though not problematic), a slightly burnt-orange, caramelised finish; this is still fine, but for me lacks the freshness that I so like in great Vouvrays. A lovely wine, but not quite in balance.
But don’t listen to me – Pinguet thinks this wine will be a legend, and my criticisms were in a minority amongst those I spoke to.
Tasted at Christie’s, London, Thursday 6th May 2004.
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