1991 Burgundy – 25 Years On

1991, the year that gave us hits from Nirvana, Metallica, R.E.M. and the Red Hot Chilli Peppers, and movies like Thelma & Louise, and My Own Private Idaho.

It also gave us a great Burgundy vintage. Now, 25 years later, we have the perfect snapshot in time in which to judge it, and try to appreciate its characteristics at full maturity.

Although a beautifully warm summer, with good conditions overall from the beginning of July through to harvest. But it was not without difficulties – frost in April (which beneficially reduced the potential crop), and hail affecting certain vineyards in June and August. Selection was important to avoid damaged fruit. Finally rain did affect the latter end of harvest, particularly the whites.

The whites enjoy a fairly mundane reputation overall – a lack of both concentration and snap. But we are not tasting ‘overall’ this evening. Rather we have about an exciting a line up of mature whites as could be imagined – all grand crus from the leading growers of the day and now fully evolved. I think they’ll be fascinating.

But to my palate it is the reds, especially the Cote de Nuits, where 1991 shines, and in some cases eclipses the more famous 1990 vintage. The 1991s don’t share the same brilliance of ripe fruit as the ‘90s, but they have a real intensity to them, and a more savoury component to balance their fruity side. This component seems to lend them a more ummami, appetising edge. Now, in 2016, we are seeing them in their apogee, in peak bloom. Fantastic!