EVENTS

文: Andy Tan

最近拜访了Yarra谷的知名酒庄,Mac Forbe,当时问道,为什么他所酿造的酒以出口市场为主?他很感叹的说,我生不逢时,澳洲人不理解他所酿造的酒风,可能需要等到下一代人。

其实我很欣赏他所酿造的纯粹,酸瘦,棱角分明的酒风,然而,这类酒风,确实偏离澳洲主流的喜爱。

我最早接触勃艮第的时候(26年前),Allen Meadows还没有出道,更不用说Neil Martin和Will Kelly。然而,当时富有影响力的勃艮第酒评家中虽有Steve Tanzers和Clive Coast,但能够真正影响市场价格,消费者购买欲的,却只有帕克一人。

今天酒神贾叶的价格能超越DRC和勒桦,不能不归功于帕克(当然他的酒后来成为绝响也是原因之一),就连勒桦在当时脱离DRC后,也是帕克的大力鼓吹,给予评分每每超越DRC下,勒桦才能达到今天的天价(帕克当年写给勒桦的赞许信件还高挂在酒庄内)。另外,受益于帕克的还包括Faiveley,Claude Dugat,Bernard Dugat,Dujac,Anne Gros,Hubert Lignier,Jopseph Roty,Armand Rousseau,de Vougue,Robert Aroux,Dominique Laurent, Charlopin,Pavelot等,而他钟爱的干白酒庄则有Comtes Lafon, Coche-Dury, Colin Deleger, Michel Niellon, Etienne Sauzet, Remi Jobard等。这些酒庄们在当时的酒风都有一个共同点,那就是,新桶桶陈(帕克都叫得出他们用的是哪个橡木林和哪家桶商),晚摘(hang-time),葡萄熟度高(sur-maturite) ,而不澄清,不过滤更是能进入他法眼的不二法门酿酒步骤。而他偏爱色泽和单宁,也逐渐影响酒庄们开始采纳冷浸泡,更长的浸渍发酵时间(extend maceration)。至于干白,他喜好丰腴滑润质感,以致搅桶,全乳酸发酵,之后桶陈于全新橡木桶(中等焦度)都在当时很盛行。

后来帕克和Francois Faiveley的对簿公堂虽然最终庭外和解,但也终结了帕克在勃艮第的影响时代,而曾经受益于帕克眷爱的酒庄如Philippe Leclerc, Dominique Laurent, Faiveley(近年有修复帕克时的光辉),Colin-Deleger, Michel Niellon(帕克时代评分超越Ramonet),Sauzet(曾经和雙鸡平起平坐) 都不曾回复到往日的光辉。

一个朝代的落幕,也造就了另一个时代的开始。人们开始觉得享用3个小时的高级法餐太耗时,落后,而Nouveau Cuisine的分量和浓酱也变得不容易消化,容易造成肥胖,不符合健康标准。更多服务简捷,菜系以新鲜食材,摆盘精致,分量小的小餐厅(bistrol)开始如雨后春笋般的出现。而帕克朝代所偏爱的酒,也逐渐被以酒体轻盈,果味个性纯净,注重酒的爽凉度,口感的活跃酸度的酒所替代。

今天,尽管喝Parkerized酒也大有人在,但是已经不像80,90年代时的垄断局面,他偏爱的酒风已不是唯一衡量质量/陈酿的标准。我们已经进入两极化的审美观,而我这篇推文也正是进入主题。

不难想象,成名于波尔多的帕克,在Morey村最偏爱的特酒园是Clos de la Roche(其实帕克偏爱特级园,1级园很少被关注)。Clos de la Roche的厚实口感,集结构和力度一身,能够承受更多酿酒工艺的塑造。而Clos St. Denis,则是Morey最优雅,细致,飘逸的酒。在帕克当道时,除了来自于Dujac(当时Jacques Seysses采用全梗发酵)和Chezeaux(采用百年老藤 - 帕克偏爱老藤)的Clos St. Denis,很少被提及,更不用说能和Clos de la Roche相提并论。然而今天,审美观的改变,饮食偏爱的进化,越来越多名庄们开始酿造这款一度不被看好,今天却是酒商们如Faiveley, Jadot, Drouhin, Lucien le Moine, Marchand-Tawse旗下最时髦的酒。

TFWE将于8月23日在米其林餐厅,泰安门举办一场Clos de la Roche对比Clos Saint Denis的晚宴。当晚来宾们将有TFWE的Linden Wilkie的我的带领下品尝以下5对Clos de la Roche对比Clos Saint Denis:

2014 Clos St.-Denis Grand Cru, Domaine Amiot-Servelle
2014 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Domaine Hubert Lignier
*** 
2011 Clos St.-Denis Grand Cru, Domaine Lignier Michelot
2011 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Domaine de la Pousse d’Or
*** 
2009 Clos St.-Denis Grand Cru, Domaine Georges Lignier
2009 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Domaine Armand Rousseau
*** 
2004 Clos St.-Denis Grand Cru, Domaine Dujac
2004 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Domaine Dujac
*** 
2002 Clos St.-Denis Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru, Domaine Ponsot
2002 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Domaine Ponsot

上海晚宴: Clos de la Roche vs.Clos Saint-Denis 葡萄酒比对晚宴
Wine Luncheons and Dinners
Date Friday 23 August 2019
Time 19:00
Venue 泰安门,米其林一星餐厅 (上海市长宁区镇宁路465弄161号1号楼101-102号)
Ticket RMB 4,600 or HKD 5,200 per person
Share this page
Inquiries
all fields are mandatory

Event wine list

Vintage Wine Bottle size Score
2014 Clos St.-Denis Grand Cru, Domaine Amiot-Servelle 750ml BH93
2014 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Domaine Hubert Lignier 750ml BH93-95
2011 Clos St.-Denis Grand Cru, Domaine Lignier Michelot 750ml BH90-93
2011 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Domaine de la Pousse d’Or 750ml BH94
2009 Clos St.-Denis Grand Cru, Domaine Georges Lignier 750ml -
2009 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Domaine Armand Rousseau 750ml BH93
2004 Clos St.-Denis Grand Cru, Domaine Dujac 750ml BH91-93
2004 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Domaine Dujac 750ml BH91
2002 Clos St.-Denis Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru, Domaine Ponsot 750ml BH91-94
2002 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Domaine Ponsot 750ml BH93

Wines available for sale

Vintage Wine Bottle Size Unit of sale Qty of unit Qty of btl Btl price (HKD) Score Location
2014 Domaine Amiot-Servelle - Clos St Denis Grand Cru 750 BOTTLE 6 6 1,650 BH93 HK
2014 Domaine Hubert Lignier - Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 750 BOTTLE 5 5 2,600 BH93-95 HK
2011 Domaine Lignier Michelot - Clos St Denis Grand Cru 750 BOTTLE 19 19 1,800 BH90-93 HK
2011 Domaine de la Pousse d'Or - Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 750 BOTTLE 17 17 1,450 BH94 HK
2011 Domaine de la Pousse d'Or - Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 750 OWC12 1 12 1,450 BH94 HK
2004 Domaine Dujac - Clos St Denis Grand Cru 750 BOTTLE 20 20 4,000 BH91-93 HK
2004 Domaine Dujac - Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 750 BOTTLE 22 22 3,800 BH91 HK
2014 Domaine Amiot-Servelle - Clos St Denis Grand Cru
750 ml BOTTLE HK HKD 1,650 / BTL 6 BTL available
Bottle size
750
Qty of unit
6
Qty of btl
6
Btl price (HKD)
1,650
Score
BH93
Location
HK
2014 Domaine Hubert Lignier - Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
750 ml BOTTLE HK HKD 2,600 / BTL 5 BTL available
Bottle size
750
Qty of unit
5
Qty of btl
5
Btl price (HKD)
2,600
Score
BH93-95
Location
HK
2011 Domaine Lignier Michelot - Clos St Denis Grand Cru
750 ml BOTTLE HK HKD 1,800 / BTL 19 BTL available
Bottle size
750
Qty of unit
19
Qty of btl
19
Btl price (HKD)
1,800
Score
BH90-93
Location
HK
2011 Domaine de la Pousse d'Or - Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
750 ml BOTTLE HK HKD 1,450 / BTL 17 BTL available
Bottle size
750
Qty of unit
17
Qty of btl
17
Btl price (HKD)
1,450
Score
BH94
Location
HK
2011 Domaine de la Pousse d'Or - Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
750 ml OWC12 HK HKD 1,450 / BTL 1 case available
Bottle size
750
Qty of unit
1
Qty of btl
12
Btl price (HKD)
1,450
Score
BH94
Location
HK
2004 Domaine Dujac - Clos St Denis Grand Cru
750 ml BOTTLE HK HKD 4,000 / BTL 20 BTL available
Bottle size
750
Qty of unit
20
Qty of btl
20
Btl price (HKD)
4,000
Score
BH91-93
Location
HK
2004 Domaine Dujac - Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
750 ml BOTTLE HK HKD 3,800 / BTL 22 BTL available
Bottle size
750
Qty of unit
22
Qty of btl
22
Btl price (HKD)
3,800
Score
BH91
Location
HK
Under the law of Hong Kong, intoxicating liquor must not be sold or supplied to a minor in the course of business. 根據香港法律,不得在業務過程中,向未成年人售賣或供應令人醺醉的酒類。 The wines are offered subject to remaining unsold. Title to all wine remains with The Fine Wine Experience until paid for in full.提供的货物仍有待售。 货物所有权只在收到全额付款到The Fine Wine Experience的帐户後转移。
HK / HK storage; ready for delivery within 1-2 business days.
HK-Shop / available for in-store purchase in Sai Ying Pun.
HK Pre-arrival wines in transit to Hong Kong. Please contact us for arrival estimate.
En-Primeur / wines still in chateau; will arrange delivery to once wine is received in HK