When you really want to get to know two of the greatest vineyards in Burgundy it takes time and careful collecting of just the right bottles. First, you need the best producers’ wines to be included, but that is not enough on its own. Ideally, you would serve only vintages that are mature and ready to drink. Oh, and you would also limit those vintages so that you are comparing like with like.
Tonight we will take a close look at Musigny Grand Cru, and Chambertin Grand Cru, and all of these requirements are met, so that we will enjoy not only the best, but also have the chance to really deepen our understanding of these two vineyards. (Actually three vineyards: Chambertin Clos de Beze is its own separate grand cru, though you can make “Chambertin Grand Cru” from Chambertin Clos de Beze grapes.)
We also cover what diversity of terroir there is in Musigny tonight. Musigny comprises three lieux dits – Les Petits Musigny, which is 100% owned by Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue, Les Musigny (which de Vogue also owns the largest piece of) where all other growers are located.
For Jasper Morris MW: “Musigny is for me one of Burgundy’s outstanding crown jewels, on a par with Chambertin… marketing departments have turned the phrase ‘iron fist in a velvet glove’ into a cliché, but there is an element of this in Musigny, as in Chateau Margaux. The sumptuous nature of the fruit provides the velvet, the exceptional density of it the fruit.” “Charles Rousseau himself is quoted by Jean-Francois Bazin as saying that ‘Le Chambertin is male, well built. It lacs a bit of finesse in youth, but rounds out. The Clos de Beze is more complex, classier, more delicate.’”
At times we may think we really have it sorted in our minds what Musigny is like and what Chambertin and Chambertin Clos de Beze are like, but by putting them side by side those differences (and similarities) should become far clearer to us. And, even if they don’t we shall have enjoyed 13 of the most desirable examples of Burgundy we might wish for.
Wines to be served:
1988 Maison Joseph Drouhin - Chambertin Grand Cru
1995 Maison Louis Jadot - Musigny Grand Cru
1995 Domaine J. Faiveley - Musigny Grand Cru
1995 Domaine Denis Mortet - Chambertin Grand Cru
2000 Domaine Jacques-Frederic Mugnier - Musigny Grand Cru
2001 Domaine Dugat-Py - Chambertin Grand Cru
2007 Maison Joseph Drouhin - Musigny Grand Cru
2009 Domaine Comte de Vogue - Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru
2009 Domaine Armand Rousseau - Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru
2010 Domaine Jean-Louis Trapet - Chambertin Grand Cru
2013 Domaine Pierre Damoy - Chambertin Grand Cru
2013 Domaine de la Vougeraie - Musigny Grand Cru
2013 Domaine Perrot-Minot - Chambertin Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes