Joh. Jos. Prüm estate (often just called “J.J.”) is situated in the Middle Mosel valley, around the 50th latitude, i.e. in one of the most northern wine-growing areas of the world. The estate today encompasses around 22 hectares (about 55 acres) and their vineyards are planted with 100 % Riesling - mostly ungrafted, old vines.
J.J.Prüm estate aims to express the soil and climate conditions in its wines as authentic as possible, every vintage. Ideal harvest time, as little treatment in the cellar as possible, use of wild yeast and a rather late bottling characterize their wines which need their time to open up, but then show a unique interplay between fruitiness, minerality and acidity and are rather low in alcohol.
And couldn’t we all use some of that!
We are quite enamoured by the quality and style of boutique maison Champagne Ellner. There is increased zip and transparency in the wines due to no malolactic fermentation.
Quality was affirmed just this month by the Wine Spectator, who rated 350 Champagnes, and put examples of Champagne Ellner in both their Vintage and non-Vintage Recommendation short lists. Every other Champagne on the recommendation lists is more expensive than Ellner!
This doesn’t surprise us. We chose to work with them because we were impressed by the quality of their wine, and the reason you may not have heard of them is that they are not spending your money on slick marketing or sponsorship. Nice.
2015 Burgundy En Primeur
2015 was something of a textbook vintage for the reds. Tasting in Burgundy cellars in June and November 2016, the ‘15s were a real pleasure, often difficult to spit out, they offer so much pleasure. Stylistically I would say they are somewhere between the opulence of 2009, and the minerality, precision and freshness of the 2010. They are rather grand, fruit-laden wines, but their opulence has not tipped them over into simplicity. Their complexity – tasting in barrel – is generally open and fragrant. The reds will have broad appeal, to hardcore Burgundy enthusiasts and casual drinkers alike. This is a must year for laying down serious top level wines, but it is also a year to in which to stock up on lower level wines for everyday drinking.
Denis Mortet Gevrey Chambertin 'Mes Cinq Terroirs'
Why did I choose this wine? Because I have had it so many times, I know it so well, and it has never disappointed me.
It’s a safe choice for lunch with clients, or a drink with friends. The price is affordable, and when you taste it, you understand it easily.
Gevrey-Chambertin 'Mes Cinq Terroirs' from Domaine Denis Mortet – made from five different plots in Gevrey-Chambertin, has only been made in four vintages – 2004, 2005, 2013 and 2014.
New Arrivals - don't miss the treasure
One of the great things about my job is dealing with such a great range of fine wines. Perusing our list of new arrivals in the warehouse I was reminded on the first line of the time a friend of mine in London found out the local up scale supermarket got an allocation of Penfolds Grange 1998. It had just received a super rating (WA99/100). He went in, spoke to the manager, put the entire allocation in a trolley and proceeded to the check out. You can image all that Grange going through the scanner (blip, blip, blip, blip…) and the bill mounting up on the till screen. He also earned a lot of supermarket vouchers! It was a good buy, and still is — this is one of the legend-within-a-legend Penfolds Grange. Now’s your chance to grab a bottle or two, or a full OWC of 12.
Speaking of legends, there’s the WA100 St.-Émilion 1990 Château Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse. A decade ago I used to taste this at least once a year, but its been a while now since I’ve seen it. I guess most has been guzzled already. It must be getting very rare. Indeed, there are legends a-plenty here - Haut–Brion ’89, Las Cases ’82, Le Pin ’90, Rousseau Bèze ’93, Coche Perrieres ’90, Ramonet Montrachet ’86, Rouget Cros P ’90, Unico ’62, Pingus ’95, Monte Bello ’73. Take a close look.
Mature Leroy offer
Today we offer you a superb selection of mature wines from ‘Leroy’. We often use this illustrious name when describing wines that really come from two different sources. Maison Leroy is perhaps the greatest négocient in Burgundy in terms of the extraordinary quality of its sourcing over the decades. Wines are often released on their anniversary – 30, 40, 50 years after vintage. In many cases they have been the source of some of the very best mature Burgundies I have tasted.
Domaine Leroy debuted with the 1988 vintage, Lalou-Bize Leroy’s eponymous biodynamic estate. The style here is pure with low-yield intensity, with a luxurious texture derived from her meticulous approach.
Riesling crème de la crème - the auction wines
Imagine going to Burgundy, tasting from every barrel of your favourite top grower’s grand cru, and saying “okay, that one. It’s the best barrel of the lot. Bottle that one for me.” Let’s say in fact that it is just a half barrel, selected away for separate bottling – Roumier’s best little piece of Bonnes-Mares, made from a small patch of old vines that every year seem to yield something particularly special.
Would that appeal? How much more do you think that would cost you?
An exceptional and large parcel of wines from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
It is not often that we have the opportunity to offer a single-owner parcel like this one of wines from the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. All have been stored in ideal conditions at Crown Wine Cellars, and inspected by us prior to this offer. There is something here for everybody, including whole pristine original wooden cases, loose bottles, large formats, mature drinking vintages, and a good selection of Montrachet too.
I’m pretending to be on Hong Kong by writing this early. It’s actually late December and I am about to go on holiday to Italy where I will eat everything and drink almost as much. By the time this email goes out I will be imagining detox.
January seems to do that to people, even people I respect. Ludicrous really. Like the bust to Xmas’s boom. That’s just not healthy, really. You want to come down gently from the end of year orgy of sparkling, blockbuster and fortified. What you need now are lighter wines, but with a jewel like clarity to help you focus on the year ahead. Knowing what we know already, this year is going to require your jewel like focus and clarity. So think of this trio as meditative. Drink these and start the year on the right foot.
Carl von Schubert New Release
We are delighted to present to you the latest release of wines from Carl von Schubert at the Maximin Grünhaus estate in the Mosel (Ruwer), Germany, shipped by us directly from their cellars.
This estate is right at the front rank of fine German Riesling – one of the leading estates for the last century, and the vineyards here are well known back to the Middle Ages.
Note that they make a superb Pinot Noir (in German Spätburgunder). Our last stock of this (2012 vintage) sold out quickly.
Also note that for Riesling 2015 is receiving wide critical praise with many putting it in the league of 2005 and other absolute top vintages. Definitely one to buy.
We are pleased to offer this parcel of fine Burgundy from Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg. Here in Vosne-Romanée, Dr. Georges Mugneret established the high reputation from which daughters Marie-Christine and Marie-Andree have successfully enhanced over the past three decades.
What I love at this domaine is the purity and depth. The style is classical in the best sense, sometimes statuesque in youth, but never rustic. They make my favourite Clos Vougeot (quite something when you consider how crowded this grand cru vineyard is), and my top equal favourite Ruchottes-Chambertin. In both instances these are reference quality wines no matter who you speak to.
J-L Chave Hermitage
The wines of J-L Chave – both red and white – have always commanded serious respect amongst wine lovers. Champions of Hermitage in the Rhône Valley, Chave wines epitomise the natural generosity this granite-laden hill bestows. The whites – with the intensity of Bâtard-Montrachet or even Montrachet, depending on the year, offer a very different texture to Burgundy Chardonnay – more glycerin-driven than acidity-driven. There is no trade off in nuance. The reds are more mineral-driven, with blackberry fruit offset by the umami-balancing notes of game blood and Provençal herbs. These are wines for appetite.
“Les Clos” has for many years now been considered the lead vineyard amongst the grands crus of Chablis. Jasper Morris MW describes it as ‘the finest of them… primus inter pares, the first among its peers’. I would agree, and add that Domaine Dauvissat, is ‘first amongst peers’ alongside Raveneau in Chablis.
While Raveneau has the knack for capturing the potential for a creamy sumptuousness – often missing in nervy mineral-driven Chablis, then Dauvissat seems to me to be the greatest translator of the soil – a real terroir-iste!
After an extensive tasting across Bordeaux in April, these wines stood out for their exceptional quality for the price. We think these offer some of the best bargains of the entire campaign, and they come highly recommended.
2015 Château Figeac, 93-94 points, available @ HK$1,080 per bottle
2015 Château Cheval Blanc, 95-97 points, available @ HK$5,000 per bottle
2015 Château Lafite Rothschild, 94-96 points, available @ HK$4,200 per bottle
2015 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, 94-96 points, available @ HK$1,180 per bottle
2015 Château Mouton-Rothschild, 93-95 points,available @ HK$3,900 per bottle
2015 Château Leoville Las Cases, 95-97 points, available @ HK$1,350 per bottle
2015 Château Pichon Comtesse de Lalande, 96-98 points, available @ HK$950 per bottle
2015 Château Bélair-Monange, 94-96 points, available @ HK$1,180 per bottle
2015 Château Pichon Comtesse de Lalande, available @ HK$950 per bottle (96-98 points)
2015 Château Bélair-Monange, available @ HK$1,180 per bottle (94-96 points)
2015 Château Pichon Longueville Baron, available @ HK$950 per bottle (94-96 points)
2015 Château Canon-la-Gaffelière, available @ HK$560 per bottle (93-94 points)
2015 Château d'Issan, available @ HK$400 per bottle (93-95 points)
2015 Château Grand Puy Lacoste, available @ HK$470 per bottle (92-94 points)
2015 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Rouge, available @ HK$600 per bottle
2015 Château Rauzan-Ségla, available @ HK$525 per bottle (93-95 points)
2015 Château Montviel, available @ HK$240 per bottle (93-95 points)
2015 Château d'Aiguilhe, available @ HK$175 per bottle (93-94 points)
2015 Château Pontet Canet , available @ HK$795 per bottle (94-95 points)