The inimitable Ernst Loosen - our Dr. Loosen Riesling offer (some real treasure here!)

 

Last night Hong Kong got to experience a true force of nature, a T10 of enthusiasm for the wines of the Mosel delivered by Germany’s top wine ambassador Ernst Loosen.

Travelling some half a million of more flown air miles a year – 9 months a year on the road – Loosen has expanded his distribution to more than 80 countries, and is known by just about any wine enthusiast you speak to around the world. With his superb value-conscious ‘negoce’ label “Dr L”, he has developed a highly successful brand.

We are delighted to have secured copies of this fantastic book on Henri Jayer, the most legendary Burgndian winemaker of all, who passed away in 2006 at the age of 84.

Author, Jacky Rigaux, interviewed Jayer extensively in the 1990s, and the original edition in French was published in 1997. It details Jayer’s thoughts on aspects of viticulture, winemaking and wine, revealing his approach to each step.

Jim Finkel, a highly expert wine enthusiast and collector from New York, produced this wonderful translation from French to English and published that version in 2009.

We are delighted to present to you the latest release of wines from Carl von Schubert at the Maximin Grünhaus estate in the Mosel (Ruwer), Germany, shipped by us directly from their cellars.

This estate is right at the front rank of fine German Riesling – one of the leading estates for the last century, and the vineyards here are well known back to the Middle Ages.

Note that they make a superb Pinot Noir (in German Spätburgunder). Our last stock of this (2012 vintage) sold out quickly.

Also note that for Riesling 2015 is receiving wide critical praise with many putting it in the league of 2005 and other absolute top vintages. Definitely one to buy.

We are pleased to offer this parcel of fine Burgundy from Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg. Here in Vosne-Romanée, Dr. Georges Mugneret established the high reputation from which daughters Marie-Christine and Marie-Andree have successfully enhanced over the past three decades.

 

What I love at this domaine is the purity and depth. The style is classical in the best sense, sometimes statuesque in youth, but never rustic. They make my favourite Clos Vougeot (quite something when you consider how crowded this grand cru vineyard is), and my top equal favourite Ruchottes-Chambertin. In both instances these are reference quality wines no matter who you speak to.

Dom Pérignon’s art, it is said, was to be a master blender. Modern Champagne follows this principle. It is a product overwhelmingly dominated by blends – grape varieties, and village and vineyard sources, as well as the dimension of inter-vintage blending. All this in aid of making the right finished product, envisioned by the chef de cave at the beginning of the process.

 

Champagne as a single vineyard and single vintage wine sits out as a tiny niche minority product, and yet some of the most iconic Champagnes of all sit in this category – think Krug Clos du Mesnil, or Bollinger’s Vieilles Vines Françaises. Alongside these two is one of my favourites – Philipponnat’s Clos des Goisses.

 

We have just landed this fantastic Bordeaux DRINKING cellar. Whenever we get hold of a cellar like this — bought on release and professionally stored, AND in a vintage range where everything is in its optimal drinking window, the wines sell very quickly.


Please take a look at the list below. The list is represented by some of the greatest wines of the ‘80s and ‘90s – such as 1996 Latour and Margaux, but also by some great value drinking – Pavillon Rouge, Rauzan-Ségla and Rieussec. Also included, I am delighted to see, is my favourite post-’61 fully mature vintage of Château Palmer — the 1989. (The 1983 is also very highly regarded and now getting quite rare).

The wines of J-L Chave – both red and white – have always commanded serious respect amongst wine lovers. Champions of Hermitage in the Rhône Valley, Chave wines epitomise the natural generosity this granite-laden hill bestows. The whites – with the intensity of Bâtard-Montrachet or even Montrachet, depending on the year, offer a very different texture to Burgundy Chardonnay – more glycerin-driven than acidity-driven. There is no trade off in nuance. The reds are more mineral-driven, with blackberry fruit offset by the umami-balancing notes of game blood and Provençal herbs. These are wines for appetite.

 

“Les Clos” has for many years now been considered the lead vineyard amongst the grands crus of Chablis. Jasper Morris MW describes it as ‘the finest of them… primus inter pares, the first among its peers’. I would agree, and add that Domaine Dauvissat, is ‘first amongst peers’ alongside Raveneau in Chablis.

While Raveneau has the knack for capturing the potential for a creamy sumptuousness – often missing in nervy mineral-driven Chablis, then Dauvissat seems to me to be the greatest translator of the soil – a real terroir-iste!
 

After an extensive tasting across Bordeaux in April, these  wines stood out for their exceptional quality for the price. We think these offer some of the best bargains of the entire campaign, and they come highly recommended.

 

2015 Château Figeac, 93-94 points, available @ HK$1,080 per bottle 

2015 Château Cheval Blanc, 95-97 points, available @ HK$5,000 per bottle 

2015 Château Lafite Rothschild, 94-96 points, available @ HK$4,200 per bottle

2015 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, 94-96 points, available @ HK$1,180 per bottle

2015 Château Mouton-Rothschild, 93-95 points,available @ HK$3,900 per bottle

2015 Château Leoville Las Cases, 95-97 points, available @ HK$1,350 per bottle

2015 Château Pichon Comtesse de Lalande, 96-98 points, available @ HK$950 per bottle
2015 Château Bélair-Monange, 94-96 points, available @ HK$1,180 per bottle

2015 Château Pichon Comtesse de Lalande, available @ HK$950 per bottle (96-98 points)

2015 Château Bélair-Monange, available @ HK$1,180 per bottle (94-96 points)

2015 Château Pichon Longueville Baron, available @ HK$950 per bottle (94-96 points)

2015 Château Canon-la-Gaffelière, available @ HK$560 per bottle (93-94 points)

2015 Château d'Issan, available @ HK$400 per bottle (93-95 points)

2015 Château Grand Puy Lacoste, available @ HK$470 per bottle (92-94 points)

2015 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Rouge, available @ HK$600 per bottle

2015 Château Rauzan-Ségla, available @ HK$525 per bottle (93-95 points)

2015 Château Montviel, available @ HK$240 per bottle (93-95 points)

2015 Château d'Aiguilhe, available @ HK$175 per bottle (93-94 points)

2015 Château Pontet Canet , available @ HK$795 per bottle (94-95 points)

 

The 1980s witnessed something of a quiet revolution in Barolo and Barbaresco. Luciano Sandrone, and peers were labeled ‘Modernistas’ for employing new French oak barriques, shortening macerations, and making a more supple ‘international’ sort of wine from the beloved Nebbiolo. Sheer sacrilege to the likes of Bartolo Mascarello and the ‘Traditionalistas’ over the fence.

The battle of ideas that took place has largely cooled off since then, as we see more modern practices in winemaking (if not maturation) amongst the traditionalists, and a few botti and larger oak casks making their way into the once staunch modernist estates.

Christophe Roumier, b. 1958, is the third generation at the helm of Domaine Georges Roumier in Chambolle-Musigny, and one of the very greatest vignerons of his generation.

 

Here he makes one of the finest domaine-bottled Bonnes Mares available today. This grands crus terroir is mostly in Chambolle’s terres blanches (white soil), giving wines of finesse and fragrance, but there is also a portion on terres rouges (red soil) in Morey, giving wines of more structure and substance. In addition to Roumier’s attention to detail and quality focus, two further factors contribute to the greatness of his Bonnes Mares: firstly, it is a blend of these two soils (about 3/4 blanches and 1/4 rouges); and secondly, he owns a sufficient portion of it – about 1.4ha - to manage elevage very precisely, something much more challenging for a small quantity (like his Musigny). The Roumier Bonnes Mares is an absolute reference point amongst Burgundy’s finest wines.

We are pleased to offer the following rarities from Domaine Emmanuel Rouget.


Rouget began making his own Echézeaux in 1985, trained by and mentored by Henri Jayer. Rouget assisted Jayer at his domaine, and so learned his craft by the greatest Burgundy vigneron of a generation.

 

In 1989 the first Cros Parantoux under the Rouget label appeared, sitting alongside that of Méo-Camuzet and Henri Jayer (Jayer retired – officially – in 1991, but Cros Parantoux, in small quantities, continued at Domaine Henri Jayer until the 2001 vintage). It is this vineyard that is perhaps most closely associated with Henri Jayer, because it was Jayer who brought it back from desolation, the first vintage appearing with this name in 1978.

Shop Tasting: The First 15 vintages of d'Arenberg's "Dead Arm" Shiraz (1993-2007)

27th September 2016

 

Date: 27th September 2016
Time: 6.30-8 PM
Venue: The Fine Wine Experience Shop (Shop D, 85 Queen's Road West, Sheung Wan, HK)
Price: HKD 580 per seat. Limited to 14 guests